greece – Obermillers

Traveling Abroad: Athens

We have come to the last city on our European adventure of 2014. Hard to believe we went to all these cities. I am so happy to have blogged about it so the memories will always be there. I am a little sad writing this one as I fear it could be our last Europe trip for a long time. I mean travelling to Europe with 3 kids seems like a daunting prospect. I think I will just cross my fingers that my husband’s job will one day be there and we will have the chance to call Europe home. For now I will give this last account.

In Athens we were able to stay in the city center through Airbnb. The location was perfect for us as it was close to food and public transportation. Our Airbnb hosts were great and with little fuss we were in the apartment. It had two bedrooms and I spent the nights with Isla while Ian stayed with Wells. It was great to be able to make the kids’ food as there were grocery stores where we could easily get supplies. We ate a lot of olives and brought quite a few home with us!

Our host provided us with tickets to see the major attractions! It definitely helped us keep down on costs. We hit the Acropolis first as that is what we were most excited about. It was as beautiful as I imagined. However, it was under construction and in keeping with the rest of Greece had a lot of hired people standing around. I would highly recommend it but be sure to wear walking shoes as it is a bit of hike. Also, sun protection and lots of water are a must. My husband was lamenting that he forgot sunglasses and a hat! Wells had a good time posing for pictures and we met a really nice family while we were there who took a lot of our pictures for us! There are lots of different parts to see so I recommend carving out a half day to see everything.

Another must see is the new Acropolis museum. I have been to a lot of museums and this is one of the best planned and aesthetically pleasing museums I have ever been in. I could definitely have spent a lot longer there than we did if our kids weren’t getting so hungry! There are also helpful guides in the museums to answer a lot of your questions.

There are lot of little sites to see throughout Athens. There were several temple ruins throughout the city, some of our favorites were the Stoa of Attalos (huge modern reconstruction financed by Rockefeller!), the Temple of Hephaestus. I would say three days is enough to see all Athens has to offer unless you plan to make a day trip outside of Athens. I can’t imagine how hot it must get in summer, but for us April was the perfect temperature and weather.

I hope you have enjoyed our tour of Europe. In further travel posts I will be recounting the European trip I took with my son and husband in 2012. Also, our upcoming trips to California and Kauai. Our third Hawaiian trip with Wellington and Isla’s first! I hope you will join us for those and feel free to ask any questions you may have. I am happy to share more of our in-depth research with you!

Traveling Abroad: Easter on Naxos

Easter is a big deal in Greece. We were told that we would probably be invited to a local family’s festivities. Coming from America this was a totally foreign concept to us, and we didn’t believe it would happen, although my husband was holding out hope.

10357645_10100620112731114_5994488491410993604_o — Sphinx overlooking the Mediterranean

Love Isla's face in this picture — Love Isla’s face in this picture

We arrived on Naxos and were picked up by the hotel. Most hotels on Naxos seem to offer this service as there were several vans waiting to pick-up people. We stayed in an apartment-like hotel room where the bedroom was separate from the living area which had a small kitchen. As we assumed most things would be closed for Easter we figured having a kitchen would be useful.

A playground by our apartment — A playground near our apartment

We walked to the grocery store to pick up food as there was a nice one within walking distance. It was larger and had quite a few options. Also, there is a local bodega more in town that has a decent selection. For food there are always gyro places around, and you really can’t go wrong as long as the meat is fresh. We usually try to scope out what they look like before making our selection. On Naxos, as everywhere else in Greese, they had “Greek Frappés”. They were incredibly popular (especially with the men). We actually liked them a lot and they were decently priced. Most importantly in the castle area there is a bakery that makes wood fired bread fresh every morning. It was a daily stop for us and you could usually get it while still hot. It is a little difficult to find in the winding streets the but so worth the trek.

There is quite a bit to see on Naxos. We decided against renting a car but there is plenty to do on the island if you choose to and more historical sites to see. We found lots to do within walking distance of our hotel, which was just south of the downtown area. We visited the Portara, a beautiful arch facing towards Delos which is Apollo’s birthplace. You could go right up to it to see and take pictures. It really makes an awesome site on a sunny day and you can see most of the island. After that we hiked up the mountain to a chapel located there. It looked down all over the town and was breathtaking. It was a pleasant hike but with a baby on your back and toddler to carry can be difficult. Luckily, there was a very nice lady who drove us up to the monastary. Also, she spoke Greek which was so helpful for getting us in. I don’t think we could have made it without that ride. The monastary was a nice place to visit on Easter and the nun was very accomodating.

Wells and the monastary — Wells and the little chapel

View from the monastary — View from the chapel

View inside the chapel — View inside the castle

Wells has the best hair in front of the Portara

After that as we were walking home and close to our place we stumbled upon a family having Easter dinner. They offered us some amazing food and warm hospitality. They really are kind in Greece, and particularly on the laid back, less touristy islands like Naxos. It was a perfect way to spend Easter, getting a glimpse into this warm culture. My husband and I often wish we had come from such a tight-knit culture.

On another day we visited the town to explore. There was a Venetian castle we visited. The town has so many nooks and crannies to visit. For us it became a daily visit after the first time so we could find the amazing bread. We stayed right by the water and we walked along the beach and spent time playing in the water and sand. It was an idyllic time to rest and recuperate from our journey.

I hope you enjoy our pictures of Naxos as much as we did. Feel free to ask any questions you may have. From there we headed on a high speed ferry to Athens. It was very packed and uncomfortable, difficult to find seats. I would really suggest taking Blue Star everywhere.

Traveling Abroad: Paros

After leaving Santorini we took a ferry to the less-traveled island of Paros. There were fewer archaeological sites to see and we spent most of our time just experiencing the Greek way of life. We rode in on a Blue Star Ferry, which confirmed for us there is no better way to travel. It was pouring when we arrived and did so most of the next day. We were leaving the day after so we had no choice but to venture out and see the sites. Thankfully Hotel Oasis was literally steps from the port in Parikia, and we got inside during a little break in the rain before it began to pour again. The room was a little buggy, but we enjoyed the ocean view and spacious corner suite.

Luckily the rain doesn't bother Isla — Luckily the rain doesn’t bother Isla

The town reminds me of the Greek island towns you picture that are white washed with painted stone streets. There was a beautiful church, the Panagia Ekatontapiliani, to stop at that had some ruins to explore. It was definitely worth seeing if you are on the island. We were some of the only people out that day due to the rain so it was relaxing time to see the city. Also, Wells really enjoyed jumping in puddles.

There was a grocery store nearby that makes for a very picturesque walk as it follows the water. They have all the things of a typical store, though quite condensed and very busy. Also nearby were gyro stands and very good ones right by our hotel and the water. There were two right by each other so we would switch between them. We could not decide our favorite. There are bakeries on the island, too, with cheap freshly baked bread.

To see more of the island you can definitely rent a car but we chose to stay in town so we wouldn’t have the hassle of driving in a foreign country. It was a relaxing visit and on our last day there it was sunny and beautiful. We were able to walk and enjoy the beauty of the island without umbrellas once again. Luckily we had time before our ferry left in the early afternoon. Museums were free that day in Greece and we stopped in a little archealogical museum. It was a tiny museum but with some nice Greek relics. Uncharacteristically for Greece, and perhaps due to the holiday, we had a lot of freedom to explore without being hounded by museum staff.

Apparently cats don't like rain either — Apparently cats don’t like rain either

After that it was time to go, but our ferry was late. Apparently that was a common situation and especially for the ferry we were taking. It was not as nice as the Blue Star ferry and very empty. I would not recommend taking this one but the timing was good for us, minus the delay.

Traveling Abroad: Santorini

After we left Rhodes it was on to the next Greek island, Santorini. Instead of a high speed ferry we took the Blue Star Ferry. I highly recommend this line and it is the only way I would travel in the future between islands. It is like a cruise ship and very roomy. We reserved seats, though I don’t think it is worth the extra cost since you can generally find seating throughout. Granted we did go in April, so it might be different during the busy summer.

It was a long ferry ride and we arrived late at night. Our hotel, Villa Fotini, picked us up at 2am and dropped us off out front. It was a long, windy road and a bit frightening at night! I would never want to drive that. After getting to the hotel we were exhausted and found out our room was not ready that night so we would have to move rooms in the morning. An inconvenience but doable since we didn’t start unpacking.

The hotel served breakfast, and the owner, Maria is so friendly. She made us a delicious breakfast with some pastries, eggs, and coffee. Also, she made hot chocolate for Wellington which he loved! She was very helpful with information and dropped us off in town so we could catch a bus to Akrotiri. An hour later we were dropped off right in front of the site.

Akrotiri was an ancient civilization buried by a volcano and preserved until recent excavations. All of the inhabitants had already left so it appears they knew it was coming. It was a wealthy civilization. The site is completely covered for preservation. The guides at this site are knowledgeable and willing to answer questions you may have. We did not take our stroller because there were a lot of stairs going around the site. After we finished we walked down to the water where a beautiful church was. The water is truly beautiful in Greece.

After the bus ride back we got dinner in town and walked along the caldera. Of course we had more gyros which were equally as good. The prices on Santorini are a bit more expensive than other islands. It is more of a well known tourist destination due to cruise ships and a wealthy resort town. We were able to catch the sun set over the caldera. It is really beautiful along the cliffs.

The next morning we had another excellent breakfast and explored the town as we did not have time the day before. There is not a lot to do on Santorini and it is more about relaxation as evident by the many cliffside resorts. You kind of just wander around the town and go up and down the different alleys. This is definitely not a stroller town as there are stairs and tight alleys to get to some of the shops. Santorini has bakeries and we bought some cookies for dessert. Also, we had more gyros. There are plenty of options, so it is best to see where the locals eat and where people are lining up.

How building supplies are transported along the Caldera

There is a funicular that goes to the port where the cruise ships dock. I believe it is also walkable but we did not do that. We were content with enjoying the view and soaking in the culture. After another great sunset it was time to call it a night. The next day after breakfast we were dropped off at the port to catch a ferry for our next island adventure!

Traveling Abroad: Rhodes

After traveling extensively through Turkey and that arduous ferry ride we found ourselves in the beautiful ancient city of Rhodes! It felt like we were starting vacation all over again to explore a new country. Instead of a hotel this time we stayed in an Airbnb rental. The man met us at the ferry and drove us to the rental. He was very nice and the rental was truly amazing. It was a great value and we each had our own rooms and full kitchen! Plus, it was inside the old city walls, which gives you the feeling of stepping back in time. This was seriously the best decision we could have made. The kids slept so amazingly well. Also, the hosts left fruit, wine, and chocolate. It is always the small touches that really make a difference.

For food, well that was easy because we were so excited to try gyros and were they ever worth the wait! I could eat one everyday and be very happy. Luckily, they are everywhere and on Rhodes they were 2.50 euro. They come packed with chicken or lamb, tomatoes, onions, lettuce, tzatziki sauce, and, of all things, french fries. They are always freshly made and the kids loved them, too. We also stopped at a supermarket (they are only in the new town) to buy some delicious olives. For breakfast we had fresh fruit and bought some eggs at the supermarket as well.

We stayed in Old Town because of the central location. Most of the museums were accessible by foot. We did do a day trip to Lindos on the other side of the island, a comfortable bus ride away. We used our stroller throughout the city, despite the sometimes odd paving of round flat stones stuck upright. The sidewalks are narrow in old town and the cobbled streets are a little bumpy. You were not able to use a stroller in the museums so be aware of that and bring a carrier or plan accordingly.

I think you need to brace yourselves for Greek museums. They are not as approachable or as friendly as in Turkey but the biggest disturbance in my experience is the staff. Every room in every museum had someone working and standing guard even if all the artifacts are behind glass cases. They will follow you around to other rooms most ardently. It was so off-putting to feel constantly watched. I think it would have been less annoying if they had offered knowledgeable and useful facts about the displays we were looking at or at least a friendly remark. However, that was not to be. Also, we were visiting in the off season so sometimes we were the only ones in the museums, in which case we were considerably outnumbered by staff. It was one of the strangest experiences we have encountered.

We visited the Archaeological Museum and the Palace of the Knights on the first day. I believe that you need to only see one of them and I would definitely chose the palace. While the building and grounds of the first are gorgeous the second museum surpassed it. There are beautiful mosaics in both, mainly pillaged from the island of Kos. The children were very good throughout the museums.

10369000_10100614721480224_4920485099134529661_o — Grand staircase in the Archaeological Museum. The displays are in rooms all along the outside.

10333378_10100614721774634_7540254230675810954_o — Arches under the Archaeological Museum.

10259179_10100614722079024_4711141876991896684_o — Grand staircase in the Palace of the Knights.

10383845_10100614722188804_1232399792353595404_o — Mosaic in the Palace of the Knights.

10257950_10100614722558064_4307973901106365083_o — Courtyard of the Palace of the Knights.

10358947_10100614722757664_6427444782475817006_o — Ruins in the midst of the Old City.

Exploring Rhodes is another wonderful part of the experience. We loved wandering around the winding streets and experiencing the beauty and history of the old city. There are a few ruins to explore, including a nice walk along the former city moat (not stroller friendly), and many great views of the Mediterranean. Above all, Rhodes was probably the most peaceful part of the trip.

10258925_10100614723775624_3829972633943088913_o — Enjoying the sun in front of one of the many gates to Rhodes.

The day trip to Lindos is a definite must-see for the ruins high up on a hill. We did not bring our stroller because of the many stairs throughout the city and the hike to the top. It was definitely a journey to the top but worth it. However, if you do not feel up for a long steep hike then you can hire a donkey to get to the entrance of the site. I do not think it is worth it just to get through the city but that is always an option and maybe a novel experience. Not only were the sites interesting but you could see the cities surrounding it. It was breathtaking and you understood why they would build a city on top of such a site. On the way back we rewarded ourself with a gyro and ate it with a view.

10258734_10100614724060054_1459337853526345462_o — You walk through the winding streets in the town of Lindos to get to the acropolis.

Back in Rhodes, we had some extra time to explore a little outside the city to see the amphitheater and ruins of a temple. They were interesting to see if you have extra time but not a must-see.

1909186_10100614725217734_3734965499895797029_o — Ancient theater at the Acropolis of Rhodes.

10258227_10100614725851464_7042356783041808091_o — Watch out for scooters!

10368972_10100614725976214_8434064343885441913_o — Walking path in the old moat.

We loved our time in Rhodes. It is a beautiful city full of history and culture. We probably stayed a little longer than required, but it was nice to rest and soak it all in.

Traveling Abroad: Marmaris

You have faithfully followed our adventure through Turkey. I hope you have enjoyed our journey because now we move to the last Turkish leg and onto our trip through Greece. From Pamukkale we had to first take the shuttle to Denizli and from there a bigger passenger bus to the port city of Marmaris.

The journey by bus is a long one but it was beautiful to see more of the countryside and it was relatively empty which allowed us to spread out. The total journey time was around four hours. There is a bathroom on the bus and some drinks so it made the bus ride go by smoothly with our potty training boy.

There was a stop along the way for the military to check the passports of the Turkish men on board. We were a little confused when that happened and surprised they did not want to see our passports at all. Of course, there were very friendly people during the bus ride to help make the time go by fast. Once we arrived in Marmaris we walked from the bus stop to the port. It was around a mile journey and a little difficult with the kids and luggage but we made it and it was nice to stretch our legs after the long journey.

We were to catch a high speed catamaran to Rhodes, Greece. We went to pick up the tickets in the office, but they wait until the very last minute to open it up, which was a little nerve racking. Also, the boat was late so that set us behind. There were some added port fees to the tickets which weren’t very clear. After we finally got our tickets (not an easy process) we were able to board the boat after going through some thorough security.

Wells saying goodbye to Turkey (before the rough waves and sea sickness came)

We had never been on a high speed catamaran before and I pray to never ride one again! The water was so choppy and the whole family except for Isla was sick. I couldn’t believe it! Wells and Ian never get motion sickness so that is how bad the water and ride was. It was probably the longest hour of our lives. It felt like we bounced from high wave to high wave, like the worst stomach dropping part on a roller coaster over and over again. Think twice before you book that mode of transportation around Greece. It all depends on the conditions of the sea.

Luckily, we arrived intact and were happy to be back on solid ground! We had made it to the beautiful island of Rhodes and we knew that we were going to love Greece.