Wells and Isla have loved celebrating Halloween this year. We’ve already been trick-or-treating twice, and we’ll be having a party today followed by more trick-or-treating around the neighborhood. Isla loves picking candy and putting it into her bucket, and Wells likes to give it to us (yum!). He’s had a little trouble getting in and out of doorways with his costume, but we’ve had many compliments on the homemade airplane. I wish we could dress them up all the time!
Isla the peacock with her trusty steed.Wellington’s airplane costume.
You have faithfully followed our adventure through Turkey. I hope you have enjoyed our journey because now we move to the last Turkish leg and onto our trip through Greece. From Pamukkale we had to first take the shuttle to Denizli and from there a bigger passenger bus to the port city of Marmaris.
The journey by bus is a long one but it was beautiful to see more of the countryside and it was relatively empty which allowed us to spread out. The total journey time was around four hours. There is a bathroom on the bus and some drinks so it made the bus ride go by smoothly with our potty training boy.
There was a stop along the way for the military to check the passports of the Turkish men on board. We were a little confused when that happened and surprised they did not want to see our passports at all. Of course, there were very friendly people during the bus ride to help make the time go by fast. Once we arrived in Marmaris we walked from the bus stop to the port. It was around a mile journey and a little difficult with the kids and luggage but we made it and it was nice to stretch our legs after the long journey.
Marmaris port
We were to catch a high speed catamaran to Rhodes, Greece. We went to pick up the tickets in the office, but they wait until the very last minute to open it up, which was a little nerve racking. Also, the boat was late so that set us behind. There were some added port fees to the tickets which weren’t very clear. After we finally got our tickets (not an easy process) we were able to board the boat after going through some thorough security.
Wells saying goodbye to Turkey (before the rough waves and sea sickness came)
We had never been on a high speed catamaran before and I pray to never ride one again! The water was so choppy and the whole family except for Isla was sick. I couldn’t believe it! Wells and Ian never get motion sickness so that is how bad the water and ride was. It was probably the longest hour of our lives. It felt like we bounced from high wave to high wave, like the worst stomach dropping part on a roller coaster over and over again. Think twice before you book that mode of transportation around Greece. It all depends on the conditions of the sea.
The port of Rhodes
Luckily, we arrived intact and were happy to be back on solid ground! We had made it to the beautiful island of Rhodes and we knew that we were going to love Greece.
From Pamukkale we took a day trip to the ancient ruins of Aphrodisias. It is a fairly long dolmush ride each way, about two hours, for which we paid ~80TL for two people. There are many big bus tours that go there but when we were there it was relatively empty, which made for the perfect trip. While it is a difficult journey to make it is incredibly worth the hassle. This city was composed mostly of marble from a large quarry nearby and it was a relatively wealthy city. Even though earthquakes hurt Aphrodisias a great deal, archaeologists have been able to reconstruct a lot of it and really well because of all the marble.
Family picture in front of the theaterIan standing in the entrance to the stadium
It was one of our favorite sites to visit due to the freedom with which you are left to explore the city. There are no guards except inside the museum. You are able to walk and explore where most other places would keep you at a distance. It was a great perspective to be able to put yourself where others once walked, to stand on the stage or walk where chariot races were held. Of course with that freedom comes the responsibility to treat the ruins with respect and not do anything that would spoil the experience for the next visitor. And, as far as we could tell, most people did just that, and despite a fair amount of visitors each year, Aphrodisias still feels pristine.
Me and the kids at the SebasteionThe monumental gateway, or tetrapylonWells as another statue
We had our stroller during the trip and it was useful because it is an expansive city and we did not want to miss anything. There is also a museum there with some of the more delicate pieces. We left that to the end because our time was limited and we wanted to make sure that we saw the city first.
Isla Athena next to AthenaSarcophagi
We brought our own food and water on the trip. There were not a lot of options there and most museums are overpriced when it comes to those necessitates. Overall, even though traveling there is a huge hassle, it was well worth it to experience one of our favorite archaeological sites of all time. Our pictures from this part are some of our favorite and I hope you enjoy. Do ancient ruins interest you?
After we left Celcuk we headed on a train for Denizli. Once we arrived in Denizli we hopped on a bus (hour ride) for the small town of Pamukkale. It is mostly a resort town from which you can see the travertines of Pamukkale and the ancient Roman city which was built around this amazing wonder. Though there was not much to do in the city but travel to these sites they were breathtaking and worth the hassle of getting there.
Since the town is so small getting around is mostly done on foot. The food options are sparse. My husband found a place for a Turkish Kebab one night that was okay and the next night as we were walking back from Pamukkale we stumbled upon this family owned restaurant. They were so kind to us and insisted we stay there and eat, also offering free soup and gifts for the kids. It was such a hospitable experience and the food was good, too, and cooked made to order. Wells still likes his Cailou doll.
The hotel we stayed at was one of the better ones in our Turkish visit. The bathroom still was not up to par with the American standard but what made the difference was the amazing breakfast. This family owned hotel put out quite the spread of food every morning and it was so amazing. We all filled up so much that we didn’t need lunch. Our favorite was the dried figs! They were out of this world and we bought some at the market in Istanbul to take home.
Now on to the main reason for being there, Pamukkale of course! My husband did most of the planning for this trip so I was a bit surprised when we arrived and there was ancient Roman ruins of Hierapolis. The ruins are very well kept and restored. It is definitely worth exploring but you need to carve out a good chunk of time as the ruins are spread out from each other and require a bit of a hike and sometimes uphill. We did not bring our stroller so we were unable to explore as much as we like. We did see the theater which overlooking the mountains was awe inspiring. I understood why they built a city so high with views and thermal pools to use.
Theater at HierapholisView from Hierapholis
After we finished exploring the city we were exhausted! However, it was time to travel down the thermal pools to get back to town. Yes, that is the popular way to get down and it was a daunting feat with a baby strapped to you. I chose to have Isla strapped to me, rather than having to carry Wells down. It was scary at times but a once in a lifetime experience and we made it safely down the mountain, traveling from pool to pool. There is a kind of carved staircase where water runs through.
Family picture before heading down the travertinesIsla and I half way down the travertinesWells enjoying the thermal poolHow Wells got down most of the travertines
This was another one of our favorite experiences. There are so many beautiful ancient sites to see in Turkey that I couldn’t fit the day trip we took in this post but considering it was my husband’s favorite site there will be more than enough to discuss. I hope you enjoy our pictures and experience. Feel free to ask any questions!
Reusing an old canvas, my husband created an awesome modern giraffe painting to bring some personalized art to Isla’s bedroom, here’s how he did it, in his own words:
Step 1 – Paint the canvas
Since the canvas wasn’t blank, I took some leftover white paint and gave it a few coats. Incidentally, I think the paint helped the tape form a nice seal, and avoided the pink leaking under the edge of the tape.
Step 2 – Find examples
Before doing anything else, I had to figure out what I wanted to draw. Searching for “modern giraffe” was a good start, and Olivia’s pinterest helped too.
Bing search for “modern giraffe”Inspiration for the head via Jess Paola on Pinterest
Step 3 – Small sketch
Using a pencil, I sketched out the general outline of the giraffe, and slowly darkened the edge details. I wanted simple, straight lines without too much detail. Small shapes are hard to tape.
Sketch of giraffe painting
Step 4 – Transfer to canvas
This part was tough; using a straight edge, I redrew the giraffe on the canvas, keeping as faithful as I could to my original drawing. Her neck came out a bit shorter and fatter than the original, but overall I was pleased.
Sketch on the canvas
Step 5 – Tape
Using blue painters tape, scissors, and plenty of patience I carefully cut and taped every edge of the giraffe. This was by far the most time consuming part, but also the most critical for success. The ear and horn were especially troublesome. Make sure to press down the edges of the tape really well; you don’t want it to peel up and get paint below.
All taped up
Step 6 – Paint!
If you weren’t repurposing a canvas, and you want the best edges possible, it might be a good idea at this point to go over all the inside edges of the tape with some white paint. This would help seal the tape and avoid any color leaking underneath.
As it is, I’d already put about three coats of white paint on the canvas, so it was nice and smooth and the tape had a good seal.
Using a small paint sample and a $1 foam brush, I painted the inside of the giraffe. You can see I added a bit more tape to cover the canvas between the legs; I didn’t trust myself to avoid painting that!
Painting the giraffe pinkTaped and painting, waiting to dry
Step 7 – Let it dry, then remove the tape
I let the paint dry for several hours (maybe even overnight to be safe), and then carefully pulled off all the tape. Thankfully, no paint had seeped under the edge and it looked perfect! I hung it up above Isla’s dresser, and now she has a cool modern giraffe to decorate her room!
This is the part of our journey that I was looking forward to the most. The ruins of Ancient Ephesus have been a dream of mine to visit (yes, I am a total history nerd). To start this leg of our journey we flew from Cappadocia to Izmir and then took an hour train ride to the town of Selcuk which lies a short distance away from the ruins.
Wells the statue
The Rebetika Hotel was very roomy and spacious. The beds and bathroom quality were inline with previous Turkish hotels but the hospitality was excellent. The proprietors were friendly and well informed. Also, the breakfast was top notch. You sit on the grape-vined rooftop deck overlooking ruins while eating hot homemade cheese pastries. I still crave those amazing pastries. It was idyllic seeing the rolling hills, and the surrounding reminded me of Tuscany.
We had to walk from the train station to our hotel. It appeared to be a short walk on the map but it tricked us because of the big hill leading up to it! It was quite the trek but then a local who was helping his family open a bed and breakfast walked us all the way to our hotel, pulling our bags! It was an amazing experience and another show of how friendly people are in Turkey.
On our way to the hotel we stopped for Turkish pizza for only 5TL. It was the most amazing pizza and for an unbeatable price. It is made fresh when you order! We went there twice while we were in Selcuk and tried the meat and cheese pizzas; the cheese was our favorite. We also ate kebabs, which were good but nothing compared to that pizza. There are also a few grocery stores to get fresh fruit and veggies, perfect additions to our meals.
Wells running free in Ephesus
Now on to visiting Ephesus. I have wanted to see this ancient site for years. We arrived to the site and it is very large. I strongly recommend an umbrella stroller for children. We did not take ours and we really needed it because the site is expansive and a lot of walking for a two year old. The site itself is beautifully restored with a lot of detail. The library of Celsus was breathtaking and we took a wonderful family picture. We seriously spent so much time just examining the detail of the library.
Family photo at the Library of CelsusThe Library of CelsusThe theater
One of the best parts of visiting the site at Ephesus is the ability to just wander around. You don’t have security guards following you around but they trust you to treat the site with respect, which is something that helps you appreciate it so much more. Also, we paid extra to visit the apartments which had restored homes that the wealthy inhabitants once lived in. The mosaics are well restored and you get an excellent aerial view of them. The hillside setting was picturesque and you could see why this place was so well settled with views of the water in the distance.
The next day after our excellent breakfast we headed out to explore more local historic sites. We visited the Basilica of St. John, which was once the largest basilica in the world, but is now reduced to ruins. However, it overlooks the countryside of Selcuk with breathtaking views. It was a quiet, peaceful attraction and was not very busy. After that we headed to the Temple of Artemis which was once one of the seven wonders of the ancient world and is now just a lone column. It was destroyed by the Goths. After that we ran into our hotel proprietor who convinced us to visit his friend who happened to be a rug maker! Whatever you do, do not agree to enter one unless you are seriously considering buying a rug. Well, they showed us many interesting parts of the rug making process but after that there was so much pressure to purchase one that it was very uncomfortable and not how we wanted to end our experience. After that it was time to head out and we walked to the train so we could look at the aqueduct ruins lying through the center of time.
The surviving column at the Temple of Artemis.Ephesian aqueduct
Overall, Ephesus and Selcuk are a must see in Turkey and should be at the top of your list.
Wells is getting to the age where he definitely has very firm preferences. He has no qualms about making his preferences known. How is it that it usually seems to be the exact opposite of what you want? What an uncanny ability preschoolers seem to have to be disagreeable. I hope it is just a phase of him finding his voice. It ranges from clothes to wanting a cup of a certain color to books. Wells is very attached to a few different books given to him by grandparents and others that we often have to read, almost every night. Amazing how fast they can almost memorize these books. Here are a few of Wells favorite books.
Pete the Cat and His Four Groovy Buttons is a particular favorite and one that I enjoy for the lesson it teaches. Pete loses all of his buttons but handles it in a way that is a great lesson for all children. I don’t want to spoil the plot for you! I think this is a must read for helping teach children how to deal with disappointment.
Pete the Cat and His Four Groovy Buttons
Don’t Let the Pigeon Drive the Bus is a new favorite that he received. Wells got the original from his grandpa and then this set from his uncle for his birthday. I had never heard of it before but it is wildly popular right now. It has an interactive quality that engages the children. Also, the animations are top-notch!
It’s a Busload of Pigeon Books!
For our train crazy son his uncle found the perfect book for him! Locomotive takes you through an amazing description of trains, making it thrilling for train loving children. This book is long and usually has to be spread over two nights. Wells loves this book and the length ensures that he never seems to tire of it.
Locomotive
These books are a few of Wellington’s current favorites. I love books for gifts because they ignite a love for learning and something that families will often have forever.
On the next leg of our journey in Turkey we headed east, leaving the European side of Istanbul for Cappadocia a central region on the Asian side. This is the farthest east my husband and I have ever been. We flew there on Turkish Airlines, and if you ever have a chance to fly Turkish Airlines take it; we had the best experience of our lives! It is quality all around. On our one hour flight we received a meal that included a sandwich, salad, and chocolate mousse for dessert. Also, they had baby food for Isla and fabulous hospitality from the flight attendants. Compared to flying in America this quality was definitely a pleasant surprise.
The town of Goreme
After we landed we had to take a shuttle to the town of Goreme. It was very simple and relatively inexpensive, around 40TL ($18) for both of us (kids were free). The shuttle took us right to the hotel (Goreme Country House). Now this about lines up with all of our other hotel experiences in Turkey. The unfinished bathroom was not very clean. The bed was very uncomfortable, and the linens were sparse. It did come with breakfast that was cooked by the owner everyday, and was more of a western breakfast with eggs. It was on the edge of town, about a ten minute walk to the center.
Goreme is very walkable and everyone is very friendly in the town. We ate more Turkish pizza and kebabs. We got our meals mostly to-go so it was easier with the children. There was a grocery store here so it was easier to supplement meals and buy bottled water.
What to do in Cappadocia? If you like the outdoors and hiking there is a lot to do. We spent 4 nights there but found that 3 would have better for our family as hiking with children is much more difficult. On one hike we got very lost because of the trail markings. We started at a little town and it was supposed to be an easy and simple hike but we ended up gone for hours. If you do go hiking, purchase a trail map, which will help immensely. There were numbered trail markers, but the maps accompanying them were destroyed.
The trail markings, possibly why we got lost.
We did a group tour one of the days. Always negotiate the price directly with the tour guides. You will get the best prices that way, rather than going through your hotel. This whole day affair includes a lunch. It should be less than 100TL per person. Also, look for a tour guide that speaks English well. Ours did not speak English very well and it did hinder the quality of the tour. Be sure to take lots of water; buy a 5 liter bottle in the grocery store before you go or you will be paying a lot by the attractions. On this tour (known as the Green Tour) we visited the Selime Monastary, Derinkuyu Underground City, and Ihlara Valley. We were a little rushed, maybe because we were carrying a 2 year old and 6 month old. I would definitely recommend doing the tour because seeing these on your own would be very difficult, especially without renting a car. If you had a car or scooter, though, you’d be able to go at your leisure and probably see more in one day. Here is a great post going more in depth about the Green tour.
A view from the Ihlara valley hikeIn the underground city. Be prepared for lots of stooping.Wells trying to pet the goat and then running from the goat when it starts to chase himA stop at a viewpoint of Goreme.
On another day we visited the Goreme Open Air Museum. It was so amazing to see all the churches carved out of the stone with well preserved frescoes. Some of these churches are very elaborate. The museum itself is of course open air and can be hot with the sun beating down on you. Also, this is not a stroller friendly museum as you generally have to climb or descend to see the churches. Even so, I would highly recommend visiting. You don’t really need a tour guide to see the museum, so if you can get a ride there and back (or walk if you are up for it) you can save some money.
Another popular thing to do there is hot air balloon rides. We did not do this while we were there as we generally didn’t think our children would enjoy (Wells is sometimes scared of heights) it or being woken up at the extremely early hour to do them. We read that it is a must do but we feel that we were able to get quite a few good views and save ourselves the huge expense it would be (200 euros per person!), not to mention probably not enjoyable with children. Our last morning there we did manage to see a few balloons in the air. It was a beautiful sight from the ground.
Hot air balloons at sunrise.Wells and Daddy marveling at the balloons.
In general I think Cappadocia is a must see especially if you enjoy hiking. I think 3 nights would have been more than enough. Do you want to visit?
When we first told our family that we were headed to Turkey and Greece on vacation they had quite a few concerns in regards to the political unrest in Istanbul. However, we had done our research and surmised that it was safe and obviously we would not be involved in any protests. Well, we got to Istanbul and it was safe, not a hint of any kind of trouble; but it was a culture shock in other ways!
People in Turkey absolutely LOVE children. Young, old, middle-aged, men, women: everyone loves children. Our children were constantly being touched and held. Coming from America where everyone is very mindful of personal space it was a huge shock. However, at the end of it I began to appreciate how much people loved my children; it warmed my heart. I would suggest making sure you bring a lot of hand sanitizer because by the end of the trip everyone was sick! When you travel in Turkey with children it affords you to skip through security and often head to the front of lines. Even when my husband was pushing the stroller, they would stop him, say “Where is the mother?”, and then the kids and I would be waived through while my husband had to go through the check! Be prepared for people to give you food and gifts. This was often the case and I just accepted them graciously.
Museum guard holding Isla
Getting around Istanbul with a side by side umbrella stroller was the most difficult part. The sidewalks are very narrow in some parts of the city. I would suggest a compact stroller for the city, one that folds down easily. The public transportation is exceptional with a metro and tram that covered a lot of the city and goes directly to the airport. It can get crowded but because you have children they are very accommodating and helpful with picking it up or moving out of the way. Note that there is usually only one disabled/stroller entrance/exit to the tram stops, and that if you have two adults traveling, the one not pushing the stroller will have to go through the turnstile.
Side of Topakapi Palace
In Istanbul we visited Topakapi Palace, Archaeological museum, Sofia Hagia, Blue Mosque, and the Grand Baazar. The museums were outstanding, particularly the Archaeological museum. It was a bit disappointing that it was under construction but what was open was breathtaking. The kids are very well behaved in museums and they were spacious easy to navigate with a stroller. The guards at all the museums were very friendly and not intrusive (will write more about this in my Greece post). There is a ton to see so be prepared to have your walking legs ready. The city is an explosion of color and activity.
In front of the Hagia Sofia
Now for accommodation in Istanbul. I would really not recommend either of our hotels. The Sultanahmet Suites were clean but you would not believe the steep stairs we had to mount to the 5th floor. While carrying two children this can get quite difficult. The Emin Hotel was really not the cleanest and I was very happy to leave that one and I try to forget that aspect of our trip. I would suggest being very wary when reading reviews and if at all possible use Trip Advisor and message past guests directly to get their opinions.
Blue Mosque
The food of Istanbul was okay. There are a lot of vendors to buy from and food can be fairly inexpensive if you stay away from the more touristy sections. We generally like to shop at grocery stores for a lot of our food on trips but Istanbul did not have any big ones like other European cities. It was mostly smaller, pricier markets without a lot of options. Turkish pizza (5TL, or $2.50, in Ephesus) was by far our favorite food. We also frequently bought simits (circular bread with sesame seeds) at stands near tourist areas for 1TL, or about $0.50.
Simit, simit!
Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Istanbul. If you are expecting it to be like other European cities then you will be disappointed and should prepare for culture shock. Still, we appreciate this great city for all it has to offer. Has anyone visited Istanbul? Have you had a similar experience?
I still cannot believe my newborn daughter has become a curious, affectionate one year old. It seems like we just brought her home from the hospital and with her personality we knew this year would be an adventure and boy was it! She changed all my expectations about the second child and has helped me become a more flexible, loving mother.
Here we were meeting for the first time. Isla bee still has an awesome set of lungs on her!
It has been so heartwarming to see the relationship between brother and sister grow over the last year. Their love for each other is touching. The day is filled with their mutual laughter, love (and sometimes tears.) I look forward to them becoming best friends through their many years together.
Wellington meets his sister for the first time, and shows her the sign for monkey.
My daughter is nothing how I imagined, she is more amazing than I could have ever dreamed and I love her more each day. Isla’s kisses are one of the best parts of my day and I am incredibly thankful she is mine!
